Starting The Hull
Note: If you are intending adding the "Captain's Cabin" you will need to amend the hull to accommodate the fibre optics in the vicinity of the Captains Cabin. This section is not part of the H.M.S. Fly plans supplied by Victory Models - Amati, and has been developed by Lloyd Matthews, a fellow model builder. For a full description on how to achieve this please go to the "Captain's Cabin" section before you begin the hull.
Starting The Hull
Cut out the keel,walnut prow and the bulkheads and give them a thorough sanding. I sanded the stern area of the false keel to about half it's thickness here as the width of the stern with the second planking attached needs to be the same thickness as the rudder post. Glue and tape the prow along with the two keel parts. It's now time to dry fit the bulkheads in place, along with the lower deck.
At this stage once you are happy that the parts fit bevel the front and rear bulwarks along with the edges so that they will be in contact with the planks. Do this at several points along the hulls length to establish the correct amount of bevel.It is essential that this is done correctly to enable the planks to run flat across the length of the hull. Once this is done the you can glue the bulkheads into their final position while the false deck is sited correctly.
I fitted my keel into a keel clamp as it made it easier to work with. The notes say to glue the false deck now but I found it easier to plank first, then fit. Please refer to the notes for the other hull components that need to be fitted.
This is one of the most important stages of the build and great care should be taken to make sure every piece is seated and glued correctly. If you get this wrong it could ruin the entire build!
Below is a detailed!! account for the Hull Assembly
Preparing the Hull Assembly
By Lloyd Matthews – February 2013 ©
This section may become a little confusing, as this author has not only adapted the hull assembly to the modified stern section, but will also add planking to Part No. 19, Lower Deck; this will add authenticity to the model; when looking through the hold grating on the main deck, planking can just be seen.
The bulkheads and keel will need to be prepared prior to laying the first hull planking. The techniques used are just one way of preparing the hull, and there are many alternative methods available.
Planking Part No.19, Lower Deck
Using a thick ‘bond’ paper, copy the lower deck from Plans Sheet No. 1, and draw on it the area to be planked, Figure G01.
|Figure G01 - Area below main deck to be planked|
The outline of the area to be planked must be drawn on the reverse side of the paper. There are many ways to achieve this, but this author has used a soft pencil and shaded the approximate area to be planked on a separate sheet of paper, Figure G02.
|Figure G02 - Shading using a soft pencil|
The area to be planked as shown in Figure G01, is placed over the shading and the lines are firmly drawn so they will appear on the reverse side, Figure G03.
|Figure G03 - Outline appears on reverse side.|
The reverse outline is drawn in so it is clearly visible. The top is planked and carefully cutout on the reverse side, following the outline already marked, Figure G04 and G05.
|Figure G04 - Reverse side of planking is cut out.|
|Figure G05 - Planking to be fitted into Hull Assembly.|
Ensure that the planking fits neatly into the hull assembly; prior to fixing the planking in place, give the planks a sanding with a fine abrasive paper. The bulkheads should be painted matt black, Figure G06. Apply a slightly diluted PVA adhesive to the reverse side and then fit in place, Figure G06.
|Figure G06 - Planking fitted onto lower deck.|
Preparing the Hull Assembly for Planking
The stern section of the keel will be tapered from bulkhead No. 13 to No. 09; to ensure that it remains central to the keel, a black line is marked along the stern end, Figure G07, until bulkhead no. 09, Figure G08.
|Figure G07 - Black centre line drawn along stern end of keel.|
|Figure G08 - Black centre line drawn along bottom of keel until bulkhead no. 09|
The bulkheads will need to be bevelled prior to planking, and at this point reference should be made to an excellent guide titled, “Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners”
, and should be read.
To ensure the lines of the hull are kept true, a black guide mark was drawn along the edge of each bulkhead that was to be bevelled, ensuring that the bulkhead did not go out of shape due to excess bevelling, Figures G09 & G10.
|Figure G09 - Black line drawn on forward edge of bulkheads 08 to 13|
|Figure G10- Black line drawn on aft edge of bulkheads numbers 01 to 06|
bulkheads 07 and 08 do not require sanding as the planks will lay square to the edge.
The chamfering of the bulkheads is an important operation, and the correct selection of tools should be used to make the operation easier. This author has completed the chamfering after the bulkheads have been glued, whilst model books suggest that it is done prior to gluing them in place.
There is a choice of powered or hand operated tools, and it is suggested that where the chamfering is not so severe hand tools should be used, but where a greater degree of chamfering is required, for example bulkheads 1, 2, 3, 12 and 13 a powered tool could be used.
A brief description of the tools used follows:-
Using 25 X 5mm pine and 15mm doweling, assorted grade sandpaper is fixed to the base with two sided tacky tape, Figure G11.
|Figure G11 - Dowel and flat pine used to make assorted sanders|
Assorted fabric abrasive paper fixed to 15 & 18mm doweling, Figures G12 & G13.
|Figure G12 - Fabric abrasive paper fixed to doweling|
|Figure G13 - Length of dowel can vary|
A Mini craft drill used with both cylindrical and rotary abrasive attachments, Figure G14 & G15. If required, different grade’s of abrasive papers can be cut into 20mm circular discs and fitted to the rotary attachment with two sided tacky tape.
|Figure G14 - Cylindrical abrasive attachment|
|Figure G15 - Rotary abrasive disc attachment|
Sanding disc can be purchased from most hardware stores or model shops.
Prior to using the powered attachments on the Hull Assembly, test on a scrap piece of ply to obtain a feel as to how effective they are and how much wood is removed.
The Main Gun Deck, Part No. 28, is removed from its sheet of ply; remaining in the centre is a length of ply approximately 2.5mm at its narrowest widths. Remove this length and trim to its narrowest width, Figure G16.
|Figure G16 - 1mm ply strip removed from the centre of the Gun Deck, Part 28|
This strip is ideal for checking the amount of chamfering required to each bulkhead edge, and will avoid any hollows or bumps when the planks are laid, Figure G17.
|Figure G17- Chamfering of bulkheads at the bow end of the hull assembly|
All the bulkheads are chamfered and checked using the above method, and this operation must not be rushed.
The bottom edge of bulkhead no. 13 is chamfered so the Stern Counter Pattern Part No. 146 will fit correctly with the modified stern section and the first layer of planking. Figure G18 illustrates the stern section before chamfering, and positioned correctly to the modified stern section Figure G19.
|Figure G18 - Stern Counter Pattern No. 146 positioned on stern section|
|Figure G19 - Stern Counter Pattern No. 146 positioned on modified stern|
It was seen that an additional plank was required to either side of the modified stern section Figure G20, and Figure G21 shows where the ends of the first planking will meet at the bottom of the Stern Counter Pattern.
|Figure G20 - An additional plank was required for the side of the modified stern|
|Figure G21 - Bottom of Stern Counter Pattern.|
The ‘Bearding’ and ‘Rabbet’ lines are drawn onto the Main Keel. Whilst it is not essential, this author found it was useful to draw it on Figure G22. Once the bearding line is drawn the cardboard is removed.
|Figure G22 - Drawing the ‘Bearding Line’ onto the keel|
The rabbet line is drawn on the bottom of the Main Keel, Figure G23.
|Figure G23 - Rabbet line drawn onto the Main Keel|
The rabbet line is drawn on the bow and Prow Part No. 33, Figure’s G24 and G25.
|Figure G24 -Rabbet line drawn on the bow of the keel|
|Figure G25 - Rabbet line drawn on Prow, Part No. 33|
The stern end of the Main Keel is shaped, using the bearding line as a guide. Initially a Mini craft drill was used, Figure G15, and then the abrasive blocks, Figure G11, and finally a flat needle file. Figure G26 illustrates how the Mini craft drill was used, and a vacuum hose tied to several heavy books, and positioned to remove the dust generated by the sanding disc Figure G15. The tapered stern of the Main Keel is illustrated in Figure’s G27, G28 and G29.
|Figure G26 - Mini craft drill used to shape the tapered end of the stern|
|Figure G27 - Tapered stern section|
|Figure G28 - Side view of tapered stern end of the Main Keel|
|Figure G29 - Ensuring tapering of stern is even either side|
The Rudder Post Part No. 36 is the same thickness as the keel, and it is for this reason that the stern section is tapered. The combined thick nesses of the lime wood and walnut planking is 5mm. These planks will needed to be sanded so the combined thickness of the 4 planks and the tapered section of the keel end is no more than 5mm, the same thickness as the rudder post.
The rabbet recess is cut either side into the bottom of the Main Keel with one layer of ply being removed either side Figure G30; this author used a chisel shaped craft knife to achieve this (Proedge #17).
|Figure G30 -Rabbet recess in bottom of the Main Keel|
Figure G31a illustrates how the rabbet recess makes its transition from the stern taper.
|Figure G31a - Transition from stern taper to rabbet recess|
For the rabbet recess at the bow, two layers of ply are removed from either side of the keel Figure G31; this ensure that the bow planks will have a clean line from where they come from the bow. This will be explained in more detail in the planking guidance notes.
|Figure G31 - Rabbet recess at bow|
The rabbet recess is created in the Prow Figure G32, but do ensure that it is in line with the bow rabbet recess Figure G33.
|Figure G32 - Rabbet recess made in Prow|
|Figure G33 - Rabbet recess in Prow is lined up with the bow curvature|
Plank Termin. Patterns, Part No. 15, 17 & 18 are positioned at the bow Figure G34, so the amount of shaping can be determined. Do not rush this operation and keep checking the profile of the Plank Termin. Patterns to that of the bow lines Figure G35. When completed do not fit to the keel until the Main Gun Deck Part No.28 has been fitted; this will ensure Plank Termin. Pattern Part Nos. 15 & 17 will fit snugly below the Main Gun Deck and any adjustment can be made to the profile before gluing.
|Figure G34 - Plank Termin. Patterns placed at bow|
|Figure G35 - Plank Termin. Patterns shaped at ends|
The Prow Part No. 33, Keel (forward) Part No. 34 and Keel (aft) Part No. 35 are fitted to the Main Keel Part No. 14. These 3 items must be glued squarely, and to aid this operation 3mm square guides are temporarily glued to the keel Figure G36 & G37.
|Figure G36 - 3 mm square section to locate Prow|
|Figure G37 - 3mm square section to locate Keel’s (forward and aft)|
Remove the masking tape that is covering the two holes in the keel for the holding down screws.
IMPORTANT: When the masking tape is removed from these holes, ensure no debris or glue enters so preventing the screw studs from screwing into the Main Keel.
Apply glue sparingly to the area of the Main Keel on which the Prow will be located and then fitted; hold in place with masking tape Figure G38; ensure all excess adhesive is removed.
|Figure G38 - Fitting the Prow to the Keel|
On this authors model there was a gap where the Keel (forward) butted to the Prow Figure G38. A thin piece of wood was fitted to the Keel (forward) where it butted the Prow to ensure there was no gap Figure G39. This was sanded until the required fit in the butt was achieved.
|Figure G39 - A thin piece of wood fitted to the end of Keel (forward)|
Apply glue sparingly to the Main Keel where the Keel (forward) is located; glue is applied to the butt area and it is then fitted. Masking tape and bulldog clips are used to hold it place, but do ensure that all excess adhesive is removed immediately. The screws studs are fitted to ensure that no adhesive has entered into the screw stud holes in the Main Keel Figure G40; allow the adhesive to dry firmly.
|Figure G40 - Fitting of Keel (forward)|
Apply glue sparingly to the Main Keel where the Keel (aft) is located; glue is applied to the butt area and it is then fitted. No adjustment was required for the Butt between the Keel (forward) and Keel (aft) and only one bulldog clip was required with the masking tape Figure G41.
|Figure G41 - Fitting of Keel (aft)|
Ensure that the tapered stern of the Main Keel is located centrally in the Keel (aft) Figure 42.
|Figure G42 - Keel (aft) located centrally to the tapered stern|
The stud holes in the Main Keel are covered with masking tape Figure G43.
|Figure G43 - Masking tape covers the two holes in the Main Keel for the screw stud|
All of the 3mm square guides are removed with a ‘chisel’ shaped craft knife and any excess glue is removed Figure G45.
|Figure G44 - All 3mm guides removed|
Thank you Lloyd this is a great tool for us all, I think it explains everything very well and clears up several questions I get on Preparing The Hull.
Need a PDF Here it is: Detailed Preparing the Hull Assembly